Route through the Río Lobos Canyon, one of the most enigmatic natural parks in the world

Located between the provinces of Burgos and Soria, the Cañón del Río Lobos Natural Park spans an impressive area of more than 10,000 hectares, shaped by water and wind erosion. Walking through it means gliding through magical, almost fairy-tale-like forests, home to golden eagles, falcons, and a large colony of griffon vultures. Hidden here are colossal cave paintings and a mysterious Templar hermitage, that of San Bartolomé, a 12th-century church belonging to the Order of the Temple.

The park encompasses spectacular geology and an enormous diversity of protected flora and fauna, among which the species associated with rocky cliffs stand out. It also offers beautiful hiking trails, but the highlight in Río Lobos is the Gullurías Trail, which starts in Ucero. However, before exploring the Gullurías Trail, a stroll through the small town of Ucero and a climb to its castle are essential, as they ooze history, mystery, and wonder.

Ucero and the Temple

Ucero has barely a hundred inhabitants, and it's a pleasure to enjoy a good conversation. The town, which was important in the Middle Ages, was founded after the repopulation of Osma in the 12th century, although, according to historians, human presence in the area dates back to prehistoric times.

The town has a small bridge. After crossing it, we find the Romanesque church of San Juan Bautista, which houses the statues of Christ of the Castle—known as Christ of the Templars—and the Virgin of the Antigua.

After discovering the secrets of the small town, you must climb to the castle, built on the foundations of an ancient Celtiberian fort, which once dominated the confluence of the Ucero and Chico rivers. This fortress, dating back to the 13th century, has witnessed centuries of history, from its connection with the Templar Order to its transformation into a bishop's residence and ecclesiastical prison.

The fortification, which rises at one end of the wall and has a triple-enclosure structure typical of Templar castles, should be explored both inside and out. Nearby, the ruins of a church that could have been Templar, which still stand, are worth visiting.

Towards the Path of the Gullurías

After exploring the castle grounds, head to the park house, a three-story stone building that once served as a mill, paper mill, and even a chocolate factory, located at the exit of Ucero. The route begins with a steep climb from which you can enjoy beautiful panoramic views of the castle. Along the way, you'll find countless beehives, some very old, built from logs, and others more modern, revealing that the area is a paradise for bees that produce excellent honey. The area is also an oasis for plants that thrive on rocky terrain.

The slope makes it advisable to rest on the rocky ground, being wary of vipers, which are not dangerous because they only bite if they feel threatened or are being harassed. Once you've overcome the relentless climb, you begin to enjoy the fantastic aroma of lavender, thyme, and sage, so beloved by the busy bees.

The lime kilns, the fire lit for several days and nights

Following the path, you reach the first lime kiln on the route, a cylindrical pit used as a kiln. Until not long ago, lime kilns were used to produce quicklime with the simple process of firing limestone with firewood until temperatures reached almost 1,000 degrees Celsius. This arduous task required constant vigilance because the fire had to be lit for several days, and the combustion had to be monitored, and once it cooled, the lime could be extinguished with water.

The trade was often passed down from father to son, and lime production was essential, as it was the primary binder in construction until the arrival of cement in 1824. Today, the use of lime is being revived due to its great hardness and water-repellent properties.

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After the lime kiln, continue along the path until you reach a stunning moorland, passing on your left lush valleys dotted with the footprints of wild boar, roe deer, squirrels, badgers, and wolves that inhabit the area. Along the way, the cacophony of birds is a delight to the ear and the eye. The vulture, with more than 100 pairs breeding in the cliffs, the raucous red-billed choughs, the nightingale, the hoopoe, the cuckoo, the golden eagle, and the peregrine falcon are some of the countless species that inhabit this orchard.

A little further on, you reach an interesting area with oyster fossil remains, and further on, you reach another lime kiln. Beyond this, the path enters a fascinating grove of junipers, sabinas, and pines, typical of the canyon, which transform it into a truly enchanted forest. Continuing through this magical thicket, a well-marked path appears on the right, leading directly to the impressive Gullurías viewpoint.

'On Saint Matthias' Day the Gullurias sing...'

"On Saint Matthias' Day, the gullurias sing, and the nights and days become equal." The saying refers to the lark, a small forest lark common in the area. It's very easy to see it scampering among the junipers, although when it stops, it blends into the surroundings and is impossible to distinguish.

The Gullurías viewpoint opens onto a beautiful landscape of hills, ridges, mountains, crags, and caves, where at its feet rise junipers, pines, junipers, and holm oaks that combine every shade of green imaginable.

With binoculars you can easily see golden eagles, enormous griffon vultures and the emblematic Egyptian vultures.

Here, it's essential to stop and enjoy the Gullurías viewpoint while enjoying the birdsong and admiring the colorful trees. With a little patience and binoculars, you can easily spot some of the canyon's inhabitants, such as the majestic golden eagles, enormous griffon vultures, and the iconic Egyptian vultures.

Through the forest where the light does not pass

After a much-needed break to rest, we resume the path that runs through the forest, now descending, revealing the incalculable value of the canyon's tree mass, so tightly packed that it leaves no room for the sun's rays to penetrate.

A magnificent walk through this lush vegetation makes the return journey easy, reaching a passage wedged between the rock and the river that leads to a colossal esplanade. There, to the left, stands the Hermitage of San Bartolomé, and to the right, the Cueva Grande.

The Hermitage of San Bartolomé and the esoteric world of its warrior monks

The striking appearance of the Hermitage of San Bartolomé, located in the middle of the canyon, is so charming that it casts a spell over the visitor. This small church, built around 1200, belonged to the Order of the Temple, the Christian military order that held great importance in this area. Its sudden and unexpected disappearance has given rise to myths and legends that have kept the name of the Knights Templar alive from the 13th century to the present day.

The Hermitage of San Bartolomé, almost attached to the vertical karst cliffs that surround it, is perfectly preserved and full of symbolism. With its Templar cross and the Star of Zion, it is undoubtedly one of the most enigmatic, esoteric, and mysterious Templar buildings on the Iberian Peninsula. So much so, that even a BBC documentary captured the aura of this hermitage. Today, inside, a magnificent Baroque carving of Our Lady of Health, a pilgrimage site, is preserved, along with several votive offerings from past centuries, and a decorative rosette on the floor of the north chapel.

Men of the Bronze Age

To the left of the hermitage is El Balconcillo, a small space where Bronze Age men settled, and some engravings and cave paintings remain from their lives.

The interior of the Grande Cave is colossal in size, about a hundred meters deep.

Opposite the hermitage, we find the Cueva Grande, the enormous cavern that has witnessed human presence since ancient times. It has an impressive entrance more than 15 meters high and is flanked by enormous stone walls, where vultures are almost always staring intently at visitors. The interior is colossal in size, about 100 meters deep. It is breathtaking in its magnitude and in its rock carvings.

The return from the magical setting of the Hermitage of San Bartolomé to the starting point in Ucero takes place via Valdecea and the Engómez fountain, before returning to the park house.

The recommendation The essentials

Good footwear, water, and a snack for the hike. Birdwatchers should be prepared with binoculars.

Where to sleep

In Ucero: Posada Rural Los Templarios . This 17th-century mansion was the former residence of the priest. It has 12 rooms and a cave-shaped spa. Glamping Cañón del Río Lobos . This is one of the best places in Spain to enjoy the comforts of the new geodesic tents, with a good bed and luxurious views. It also has a swimming pool.

Where to eat

The entire area is a vast pantry of local produce, with special mention to the unbeatable quality lamb, beef, and suckling pig raised in Soria. In addition, the artisan sausages of chorizo, loin, and blood sausage from local farms are a delicacy, as are the garden vegetables, especially beans and broad beans. The wild mushrooms are iconic, along with the Soria pork rinds, the best in the world. In Ucero, El Balcón del Cañón serves local cuisine with vegetarian and gluten-free options on its cozy terrace with views. It's ideal for a leisurely meal. La Parilla de San Bartolo has a Repsol sole. It serves classic roasts grilled over wood embers. Its meats, sausages, and suckling lamb are sensational.